What Are Watercolor Pencils?
Watercolor pencils are colored pencils with water-soluble pigment in the core. They draw like regular pencils when dry, but when you brush water over them, the pigment dissolves into a watercolor wash. Same tools, two very different looks depending on whether you add water.
That is the short version. The longer version is that watercolor pencils sit in a useful middle ground: more controllable than a loaded paintbrush, more flexible than a standard colored pencil. Whether they are the right tool depends on what you want to make and how you prefer to work.
How Do Watercolor Pencils Work?
The difference is in the core. Regular colored pencils bind their pigment with wax or oil — materials that resist water. Watercolor pencils use a water-soluble binder, typically gum arabic or a similar compound. That binder dissolves when it contacts water, releasing the pigment and letting it flow across the paper.
When you draw dry, the binder holds the pigment on the paper surface as a dry deposit. The marks look like colored pencil marks. When you add water — whether by brushing over the marks, wetting the paper first, or dipping the pencil tip — the binder dissolves and the pigment spreads. The more water you add, the further it spreads and the lighter the color becomes.
That relationship between water volume and color intensity is the core skill to develop. Too much water and the pigment gets diluted to almost nothing. Too little and the marks do not dissolve fully. The right amount creates rich, even washes that look painted.
Once the water evaporates and the pigment dries, it is largely set. You can layer over it, but unlike watercolor paint, you cannot easily lift heavily dried pigment off the paper.
Watercolor Pencils vs Colored Pencils
People ask about this comparison constantly, and the confusion makes sense — the tools look nearly identical in the package. Here is where they actually differ:
| Feature | Watercolor Pencils | Regular Colored Pencils |
|---|---|---|
| Can use with water | Yes — dissolves into a wash | No — wax/oil core repels water |
| Effect when dry | Looks like a colored pencil mark | Looks like a colored pencil mark |
| Blending method | Water, or dry layering | Burnishing, blending pencil, solvent |
| Best for | Mixed dry/wet work, loose illustrations, plein air | Highly detailed, photo-realistic, layered work |
| Price range | $8 (student) to $80+ (artist) | $5 (basic) to $150+ (artist) |
The one thing I notice artists miss: watercolor pencils are not inherently better or worse than regular colored pencils. They do different things. If you want precise, wax-layered realism, regular colored pencils (Prismacolor, Polychromos) are still better for that specific result. Watercolor pencils win when you want loose, painted effects mixed with drawn details.
Watercolor Pencils vs Watercolor Paints
Watercolor paint gives you more immediate fluid control and a wider range of wash effects. A loaded brush of professional watercolor can cover large areas quickly and create blooms, granulation, and backruns that pencils cannot easily replicate.
Watercolor pencils give you more control over where the pigment goes before you add water. You draw the marks, you decide the placement, and then you activate them. That predictability is easier to manage when you are learning. You can also switch between dry and wet in the same piece without mixing paint or cleaning a palette.
Many painters use both. Pencils for initial sketching and detail work, paint for large washes and loose areas. They are compatible tools, not competing ones.
Types of Watercolor Pencils
Beginner / Children's Grade
Crayola makes the most recognizable entry-level set. The pigment is less intense and the color range is small, but they behave correctly — dry marks activate with water, colors blend. Fine for practice and for teaching kids. Not worth relying on if you want serious results.
Student Grade
Sets from brands like Staedtler, Derwent Watercolour, or Koh-I-Noor sit in this category. Better pigment than kids' sets, reasonable lightfastness ratings, acceptable range of colors. If you are learning the techniques and not ready to invest in professional materials, student grade is where to start.
Artist Grade
Faber-Castell Albrecht Dürer and Caran d'Ache Museum Aquarelle are the two sets I recommend to anyone serious. Both use high-quality, lightfast pigments. The cores are soft enough to dissolve cleanly with a light wash but firm enough to hold a point for detail work. The color range goes up to 120+ colors.
The difference between student and artist grade is noticeable immediately. More pigment per stroke, richer dissolved washes, better lightfastness (meaning colors do not fade as quickly over time). If you plan to keep the work or sell it, artist grade is worth the cost.
Are They Good for Beginners?
Honestly, yes — and I say that as someone who started with traditional watercolor paint and found it frustrating for the first year. The core difficulty with watercolor paint is that you are managing a wet brush loaded with pigment, trying to control where it goes in real time. The paint flows whether you want it to or not.
With watercolor pencils, you apply dry marks first. You can sketch, erase, rethink, and lay down exactly what you want before any water is involved. Then you add water selectively. That two-step process gives beginners a way to learn wet techniques without the panic of wet paint spreading across an unprepared surface.
They are also more portable and less messy than paint. No palette to clean, no wet paint to spill. That makes them practical for anyone who wants to work outside or in limited space.
The one caveat: if your goal is eventually to paint loose, expressive watercolor with a lot of wet-on-wet and flowing washes, watercolor pencils will not fully prepare you for that. They are easier precisely because they are more controlled. Transition to paint at some point if that loose, flowing style is where you want to go.
What Can You Make with Them?
Landscapes
Probably the most popular subject. Skies benefit from wet-on-wet, mid-ground trees and fields from wet-on-dry, and foreground detail from dry pencil work. The range of techniques maps well to the range of detail in a landscape.
Portraits and Figures
Trickier, but workable. Skin tones require careful layering and color mixing. The pencil application gives you control over gradients and edges that you would struggle to achieve with paint alone.
Botanical Art
A natural fit. The combination of fine dry marks for veins and stamens with soft wet washes for petals and leaves plays to the strengths of watercolor pencils. A lot of botanical illustrators work this way.
Abstract Work
Using wet-on-wet techniques with bold colors and letting the pigment spread unpredictably. The less controlled side of what these pencils can do, but often producing the most interesting results.
Urban Sketching
Watercolor pencils are a staple of the urban sketching community. They travel well, do not require a full palette setup, and let you move quickly — sketch the scene dry, add water selectively to bring in color. Fast and effective for on-location work.
Related reading
Where to go next
If you know what they are and want to actually use them, these two pages cover the rest.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are watercolor pencils the same as colored pencils?
No. They look the same but the cores are fundamentally different. Regular colored pencils have a wax or oil binder that resists water. Watercolor pencils have a water-soluble binder that dissolves when wet, releasing the pigment into a wash. One is designed to stay put; the other is designed to move.
Can watercolor pencils be used without water?
Yes. Without water they behave exactly like regular colored pencils. Many artists use them that way for detail work, or use them dry for the initial sketch and then selectively add water to certain areas. The dry and wet modes coexist in the same piece without any issue.
Are watercolor pencils good for beginners?
Yes. The two-step process — draw first, add water second — gives beginners much more control than working with watercolor paint directly. You can think through the composition before any water is involved, which removes a lot of the anxiety that comes with traditional watercolor.
What paper is best for watercolor pencils?
Cold press watercolor paper at 140 lb (300 gsm) or heavier. It handles moisture without warping or pilling. Regular sketchbook paper buckles badly the moment water is applied. You do not need expensive paper to start — a student-grade watercolor pad works fine.
Can you erase watercolor pencils?
Before water is applied, yes — the dry marks erase like regular pencil marks. After water has been added and the pigment has dried, erasing is much harder. Light marks can sometimes be partially lifted with a damp brush or a stiff eraser, but heavily saturated areas are largely permanent. Sketch lightly before committing with heavy pigment.